#PFW

La segunda jornada de Paris estuvo llena de desfiles impresionantes y firmas que realmente no conocía y me llena de interés descubrirlas. Entre las más nombradas Lavin sobresale por su vivaz intento de representar un atuendo nocturno y Lacoste icónica y deportiva. Sin embargo firmas relativamente nuevas o no tan recurrentes en los street style también brillan como Y/project,Uma Wang o Dries van Noten. Fue un día provechoso y lleno de tendencias claves para la próxima primavera-verano que de hecho se encuentra muy cerca.
The second day of Paris was full of impressiverunways and brands that I really did not know and I am full of interest to discover them. Among the most named Lavin stands out for its lively attempt to represent a night attire and Lacoste iconic and sporting . However relatively new or not so recurrent brands in the street style also shine as and Y/project, Uma Wang or Dries van Noten. It was a profitable day and full of key trends for the next spring-summer that is super close

Y/project

Anteriormente había visto alguna que otra prenda referente a la firma sin embargo en París me doy cuenta de la fascinación que crea el diseño de Y/project es impresionante y la curiosidad por conocer sobre ella es aún mayor.

Desde que Glenn Martens se une como director creativo a la marca francesa, ha sido un éxito rotundo. Su experiencia y carísima hacia la moda conceptual y con detalles lúdicos, ha renovado completamente la perspectiva de Y/project. La energía, las siluetas arquitectónicas y el carácter vanguardista mantienen a los fanáticos de la marca ansiosos y a la espera de más de Martens.
Previously I had seen some other garment concerning the firm however in Paris I realize the fascination that creates the design of Y/project is impressive and the curiosity to know about it is even greater.

Since Glenn Martens joined the french brand as creative director, it has been a resounding success. His experience and expensive to the conceptual fashion and with playful details, has completely renewed the perspective of Y/project. Energy, architectural silhouettes and avant-garde character keep fans of the brand anxious and waiting for more of Martens.



La más reciente colección agrupa todo lo anterior en 43 looks completos con muchas características positivas que seguro formaran parte de las tendencias más fuertes de la primavera como los cortes en los jeans y la forma espiral de las botas, además de la reinvención del oversize y claro el tul súper romántico que alcanzó otro nivel con los arquitectónicos detalles de Martens.
The latest collection gathers all of the above in 43 looks complete with many positive features that are sure to be part of the strongest trends of spring such as cuts in jeans and spiral shape of the boots, in addition to the reinvention of oversize and clear the super romantic tulle that reached another level with the architectural details of Martens


La fantasía también toma de alguna manera la pasarela, claro está con toques florales y sutiles manteniendo de igual modo la fuerza por la cual se dirigen todas las temporadas anteriores de Y/project. Otro aspecto relatante fue la facilidad de agregar más y percibir de vez en cuando menos, es decir mantener el fanatismo por los accesorios cuando el concepto se torna algo masculino y la simplicidad si es genuino y femenino.
 Fantasy also takes the runway in some way, of course with floral and subtle touches keeping in the same way the force by which all the previous seasons of Y/project are directed. Another recountable aspect was the ease of adding more and perceiving from time to time less, that is to say to keep the fanaticism by the accessories when the concept becomes something masculine and the simplicity if it is genuine and feminine.



Dries van Noten

El diseñador belga ha cautivado nuevamente al público parisino con su romanticismo y tonos pasteles empezando por los marrones y jugando con los lilas y algunos estampados. Creemos que van Noten se basa en lo genuino y así lo demuestra creando looks de trajes y siluetas grandes, añadiendo un poco de sutil sensualidad.

Dries van Noten nace precisamente en Amberes y allí forja su propio estilo, con más de 50 desfiles  ha sido condecorado con alguno de los premios más importantes en el diseño de modas pero el reconocimiento más importante es el amor del público por su firma y el fanatismo que crea la dulce firma del belga.
The belgian designer has again captivated the parisian public with its romanticism and pastel tones starting with the brown ones and playing with the lilacs and some prints. We believe that Van Noten is based on the genuine and thus proves it by creating looks of suits and large silhouettes, adding a little subtle sensuality.

Dries Van Noten is born in Antwerp and there he forges his own style, with more than 50 runways has been awarded with one of the most important awards in fashion design but the most important recognition is the love of the public for his brand and the fans that creates the sweet Belgian brand.




En esta colección toma el arte surrealista de Picasso y el patchwork, uniendo así recortes y tratando de "no escapar" y simplemente vivir el momento. Aunque sí que se inspira en concíteles enigmáticos de épocas pasadas (20,40 y 60) intenta enlazar esto con la época contemporánea dejando a un lado el puñado de ropa vieja que lo perseguió en criticas de colecciones anteriores.
In this collection takes the surrealist art of Picasso and patchwork, thus joining cuts and trying to "not escape" and simply live the moment. Although it is inspired by enigmatic concíteles of past times (20s 40s and 60s) triying  to link this with the contemporary time leaving aside the handful of old clothes that chased him  in critics of previous collections.


It was a refined performance of the classics of the designer, coming to see the coats finely decorated with flowers and some belts and colorful prints (referring to the season). In addition to vaporous dresses in silk and clear oversize sweaters  placed sideways sometimes with tulle



Lavin


It is the oldest Parisian fashion house of all, her founder Jeanne Lavin had some predilection for the dresses, the blue, pink and green his most recent creative director Oliver Lapidus create a beautiful debut collection for the press, simple and luxurious without much audacity , simply filling the space and refreshing the panorama a bit in Paris.



El clásico e infalible negro tomo a primera plana el desfile en mini vestidos sexis que colocaban la lencería a su favor en los diseños y el look perfecto  recogido sin mucho maquillaje dejando el rostro con aspecto suave en contraste con los looks nocturnos. Como es costumbre trajes aparecen momentáneamente, blusas y faldas complementan el traje de coctel algo genérico que podemos observar en cualquier otra firma en crecimiento.
The classic and infallible black took to the front page the show in mini sexis dresses that puts the lingerie in its favor in the designs and the perfect look collected without much make-up leaving the face with soft appearance in contrast with the nocturnal looks. As usual suits appear momentarily, blouses and skirts complement the cocktail outfit something generic that we can observe in any other firm growing.



The question is will suffice for the critic the collection that the new designer of Lavin presents this spring-summer, will be enough the round necked suit or the sandals that caged the calves of the models; It will be enough the makeup cat eye or the LAVIN clutches for its audience. Maybe we can't differentiate this season's outfit from another firm but Oliver Lapidus still has other attempts to make his name and this stage in the  veteran french  firm remain in the history of fashion.



Lacoste

¡De vuelta en Paris!, un gran regreso para la firma que yacía en Nueva York desde hace 15 años y el horizonte parisino le hacía falta ya. Felipe Oliveira Baptista también hace de este regreso un punto ameno y placentero para su legado como diseñador, representando el contraste perfecto (en su colección) de lo sport y elegante tomando al chándal y lo ochentero de su lado.
Back in Paris!, a great comeback for the firm that lay in New York for 15 years and the parisian horizon was needed already. Felipe Oliveira Baptista also makes this comeback a enjoyable point for his legacy as a designer, representing the perfect contrast (in his collection) of the sport and elegant taking the tracksuit and eighties it on his side.



Starting with tailoring was not a bad idea even though the sporting garments took off later, the zippered jackets and dresses formed from rebuilt bombers was the highlight of that style. Oliveira wanted the spring-summer season to be remembered for trying to include garments so sporty but at the same time with some refinement in the day to day of the people and leave the footprint with respect to the casual style.



If you have any doubt, the runway was inspired in the 80s where the same sporty style came to conference rooms, considering the look of men's clothing and socks. This runway  was a total change to what we usually see in Paris however it was necessary, because who would not like to bring to a cocktail  dresses of Lacoste that certainly resemble their line of tennis.



Street style


I love it when street style is risky and even artistic, thanks to the brands exhibited (Maison Margiela, Rochas, Aalto, among others) the looks on the streets are incredible. As expected the best influencers in fashion attend the fashion week and this time they do it the best way; Giovanna Battglia bets on the animal print while Giorgia Tordini chooses the masculine and monochrome style. What is your favorite styling?

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